On the map Craig Eigiau is nothing at all. A couple of little contour rings on a broad ridge that sweeps down from the high Carnedds. Only a fool who collects Nuttalls would give it the time of day but I am such a fool. The Nuttalls themselves, determined to fit all the Carnedds into four outings, incorporate it in one of their more perverse walks, up from the car park near Lyn Eigiau, then a big down and big steep up into Pen Llithrig-y-Wrach. Then down and up again over Caigiau Gleision and down into the wrong valley with a tedious trek over the Moel Eilio ridge back to the start. Not for me. But I am taking rather more than four outings already and counting. The road to the small car park near Lynn Eigiau is one of a number that climb out of the Conwy Valley to some fabulously lonely, lovely spots. Like the others it makes an interesting drive. Very narrow with steep hairpins, closed gates you have to stop and open, a grassy central reservation between your tires. Also, for some reason, speed bumps. There is no sign post at all where it heads out of Tal-y-Bont so you need your wits about you. The car park is about 1000 ft. above sea level so you get a nice head start on the climbing. A track heads NW from just before the car park. Follow it. After about a mile there is a gate with a ladder stile. Cross it and keep going. (Here my directions depart slightly from the Nuttalls.) After a couple of hundred yards on there in another gate with a step stile. Cross it too. After just a few paces look for a faint path heading off left. Follow it up to a wall. Follow the wall on its right hand side. There is still a faint path. After climbing a bit it turns into a fence. When the fence stops there is a nice rocky outcrop thing. The top of this is the summit of Craig Eigiau, a lovely spot that doesn't at all feel like nothing at all though it will soon look like one, looking back, if you continue up the broad grassy ridge towards Foel Grach, as I did.
This is a pleasant easy climb on grass at a relatively gentle gradient. There is a path which I managed to lose after a time but the grassy ground meant it didn't matter much, though the ground was boggy here and there. From Foel Grach, I continued easily to the bouldery tor that is the top of Garnedd Uchaf. Here I took stock. The plan here was to check the time and the weather. If both were propitious go for the full Craig Eigiau Horsehoe over Pen Yr Helgi Du and Pen Llithrig-y-Wrach. If not back the way I came. Time was OK but weather seemed on the turn with rain setting in. So back the way I came. The visibility had deteriorated too and, as Ashton's Cicerone guide notes, you need your wits about you coming down from Foel Grach this way. But all went smoothly and I was soon back at my car and on my way to a big bowl of chilli at the Siabod Cafe.
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